The Chicago Fashion Coalition (CFC) is a non-profit organization that aims to elevate the fashion community in Chicago by centralizing resources and connecting members. Despite Chicago's rich history in other industries, fashion often gets overlooked. However, the fashion industry has significant benefits beyond the industry itself, including economic and social impacts.

Chicago has a thriving art, music, and food scene with a global impact that generates various forms of capital for the city, including financial and social capital. While Chicago may not be able to generate the same revenue as New York City's Fashion Week, which generates $900 million for the city and benefits tertiary industries like travel and hospitality, Chicago can bridge gaps and have fashion collaborate with industries that already have a global impact such as art, food, music, and technology.

Establishing a Chicago Fashion Week

To establish a credible Chicago Fashion Week, there is a need for buy-in from the city, fashion buyers, and consumers. The city of Chicago plays a crucial role in hosting the event, as it provides the infrastructure and support necessary to create a successful fashion week. Fashion buyers, who are responsible for selecting clothing and accessories for retailers, play an important role in Chicago Fashion Week by attending the event and selecting merchandise for their stores. Consumers also play a crucial role, as they are the ultimate purchasers of the merchandise showcased at the event. Understanding the demographics and preferences of fashion and jewelry buyers is important for creating a successful event.

Additionally, fashion buyers play a critical role in analyzing customer buying patterns and predicting future trends. When planning new ranges, buyers must consider customer demand, price levels, and the general market. Fashion buyers also review current merchandise, and how it's selling and decide what, and when, to restock. Moreover, they evaluate competitors' prices and availability to determine retail prices that provide the organization with optimized profit margins.

Talent Retention

The lack of support for the fashion industry in Chicago has led to talented students considering leaving for better opportunities in other cities. A case study of an emerging designer and Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund 2022 Finalist, Jacques Agbobly, who moved from Chicago to NYC, highlights the challenges faced by young designers who lack support and funding. The designer noted that the lack of resources and attention to the industry in Chicago made it difficult to gain recognition and success, leading to the decision to relocate to NYC.

What motivated you to leave Chicago for New York, and what factors would have made you stay in Chicago?

"I grew up in Chicago and I love Chicago. The decision to leave wasn't something I made easily but I needed a change of scenery and to challenge my own perspective in fashion. But I do think there should be more resources + funding opportunities for young designers. New York has a lot of opportunities for young designers to get their work out there and I have not seen that kind of community in Chicago yet, but I do think it's coming along. Having the garment district in NY be so accessible is one of the reasons why I stayed in NY after I graduated college. It's very easy to go source and find manufacturers in NY.”

What did you like about working in Chicago as a designer, and what challenges did you face there?

“I didn't really work in Chicago as a designer. I left Chicago to attend college, but I took my first fashion courses while in Chicago. I think Chicago has a lot of great resources for young students looking to be in fashion -- but I do think some of the challenges I faced were really not finding the proper internships when I was in high school. Other than Maria Pinto & Borris Powell I also did not know any designers in the city that could be mentors.”

What did you find appealing about the design community in New York, and how does it compare to Chicago's design community?

“A lot of top designers are based in NY and they are headquartered here which meant a lot more opportunities for young designers like me to find internships. Additionally, we have NYFW and more access to jobs after college. What I do like more about the Chicago design community is that it's more creative and more focused on creating more artistic things. A lot of designers in Chicago have fine arts experience and they really put that into work. NY is much more fast-paced.”

What do you think Chicago companies can do to attract and retain top design talent, given the competition from larger cities like New York?

"We need a lot of companies to be headquartered in the mid-west. There are not really any bigger brands that I know that are based in Chicago. I think there needs to be an incentive to do work in Chicago in order to attract companies to come. Talent is great and plenty of them are in NY but these bigger brands need a reason to come to Chicago. Chicago fashion schools need to partner with designers who are currently based in Chicago to recruit talent from schools. I also think there needs to be more of a garment district with better resources like there is in NY.”

What do you think Chicago companies can do to attract and retain top design talent, given the competition from larger cities like New York?

“I think the motivation is there, but there just needs to be more resources and organizations that will actually be able to financially support and spotlight designers who are just starting off.”

Look back, to Move Forward: Mayor Daley’s Fashion Focus

Mayor Daley's Fashion Focus: Chicago Fashion Week is an example of past support for the industry, which helped establish a platform for local designers to showcase their work and connect with buyers and consumers. However, more funding should be allocated to fashion for manufacturing capabilities and talent retention to ensure that the industry can grow and thrive in Chicago. With the mayoral races about to end, it is a call to action to the new mayor to learn from the past and prioritize funding and support for the fashion industry in Chicago.

In summary, establishing a credible Chicago Fashion Week requires buy-in from the city, fashion buyers, and consumers, as well as a deep understanding of their behaviors and preferences. The lack of support for the industry in Chicago has led to talented students considering leaving for better opportunities, but Mayor Daley's Fashion Focus: Chicago Fashion Week serves as an example of successful past support. To ensure the growth and success of the fashion industry in Chicago, more funding should be allocated for manufacturing capabilities and talent retention.

CFDA Connects Program: A Case for Smaller Markets

CFDA Connects is a program launched by the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2021 to provide business development support to select Regional Fashion Organizations (RFOs) in key US markets. Ten RFOs were selected based on their contribution to their local fashion industries and their potential to benefit from the CFDA's resources. The addition of the Chicago Fashion Coalition to the program provides a boost to Chicago fashion, and effective leadership is crucial for the success of any organization. Transformational leaders with diverse backgrounds are needed to develop ideas that cover a broader spectrum, and support from the leadership of smaller fashion markets from the CFDA Connects program is essential.

To thrive, the Chicago fashion industry needs a united front from various leadership in Chicago Fashion Organizations, and effective leadership with high levels of integrity, emotional intelligence, a shared vision of the future, empathy, and good communication skills. Diversity in leadership is also necessary to achieve diversity in thought. While traditional definitions state that leaders direct the vision of the company, and managers set specific operations, managers still need leadership skills to be effective. Leadership starts from the very beginning, and a leader is a person who communicates the policies and plans to the subordinates to start the work.

Collaboration with Other Industries

Collaboration with other industries can be a powerful way to propel the Chicago fashion industry forward. Two industries that stand out as unique collaboration opportunities for Chicago's fashion industry are the art and music communities.

Chicago is home to a vibrant art scene, with numerous galleries, art museums, and public art installations throughout the city. Collaborations between fashion designers and visual artists can lead to exciting and innovative creations that blur the boundaries between fashion and art. For example, a designer may collaborate with a painter to create custom prints for their clothing line or work with a sculptor to incorporate 3D elements into their designs. Collaborations with the art community not only bring new ideas and creativity to the fashion industry but can also attract a wider audience to Chicago's fashion scene.

Similarly, Chicago has a rich musical history with genres such as blues, jazz, and house music all originating from the city. Fashion and music have always been intertwined, and collaborations between fashion designers and musicians can result in unique and unforgettable fashion moments. For example, a designer may create custom stage outfits for a musician's tour, or a musician may inspire a designer to create a collection based on their music or persona. These collaborations not only benefit the fashion industry but also highlight the city's cultural heritage and strengthen ties between fashion and music communities.

Chicago's Unique History of Fashion:

Chicago has a long and storied history in the fashion industry. The city has been home to major fashion brands such as Sears, Roebuck and Co., and Marshall Field's, which were both headquartered in Chicago for many years. Additionally, the city has produced notable fashion designers such as Cynthia Rowley, Maria Pinto, and Virgil Abloh, who have all gained national and international recognition.Chicago's fashion industry is also unique in its emphasis on craftsmanship and sustainability. The city is home to numerous fashion schools and programs, including the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and Columbia College Chicago, which emphasize technical skills and ethical design practices. Furthermore, there is a growing community of independent designers and makers who prioritize sustainability and local production, creating a unique niche in the fashion industry.By highlighting Chicago's history and unique characteristics, the CFDA Connects program can help to promote the city's fashion industry and attract more support from other fashion markets. Additionally, collaborations with other industries, such as art and music, can bring new energy and ideas to Chicago's fashion scene and help to establish it as a hub of creativity and innovation.

Untapped Potential of Chicago Fashion

To further emphasize the importance of collaboration between industries for the continued growth of the fashion industry in Chicago, we urge the local government and the art and music community to take fashion seriously in Chicago. According to the U.S. Department of Commerce's Bureau of Economic Analysis, arts and culture contributed $804 billion to the economy, or 4.3 percent of the gross domestic product (GDP) in 2016. This proves that investing in the arts and culture sector can have a significant impact on the economy.

Chicago's unique history of fashion has not been fully utilized, and there is untapped potential and talent in the city. Therefore, it is essential to provide support and opportunities for emerging designers and established designers alike. The Chicago Fashion Coalition (CFC) is a vital organization that can help facilitate this support. As part of the CFDA Connects program, CFC can provide legitimacy and affiliation with the most influential fashion organization in America. This can help elevate Chicago's fashion scene and provide more opportunities for collaboration between industries.

In conclusion, collaboration between industries is crucial for the growth of the fashion industry in Chicago. The local government, art and music community, and organizations such as CFC must work together to support emerging and established designers and promote the city's unique fashion history. By doing so, Chicago can become a fashion hub, pave our own path, and contribute significantly to the arts and culture sector's economic impact.